Hurtigruten Day 3: Trondheim - Rörvik
In Trondheim, every day in the early morning, the ship to northern direction meets the ship to southern direction at the dock. This why one should first, after having had an extensive breakfast, visit the Hurtigruten to southern direction, that leaves Trondheim at 10.00 a.m.
Each ship has its own style, its own appearance. Last but not least, this is due to the artful interior design of each of the ships that are often of the same stuctured exterior. Famous artists have lived up the inner life with legends, colours and nature. Most of these artists have a relation to the part of the country that is navigated by the Hurtigrute, and also the themes are mainly of this landscape. Thus, the ships become galeries of partly outstanding artworks, in which textile art, watercolors, sculptures and oil paintings reflect the coast, at which the ships navigate.
But now we get to Trondheim and its 1000 year old history. The first capital of Norway is supposed to be built in 997 by the Viking King Olav Tryggvason at the debouchure of the Nidelv. The city is the old royal residence and coronation city of Norway. In the year 1991, King Harald was also here enthroned.
1030, after the death of the holy Olav, who contributed significantly to the christianization of Norway and through the increasing power of the church - in the year 1152, the city became archbishopric - the former Nidaros developed to be the clerical centre of the country as also to an important trade city.
In the year 1535, the reformation came to Norway and therewith, the period of deterioration started for the city. The city had to suffer additionally in the 17th century by the war against Sweden. The centre of the city got its actual look after the burning of 1681.
The most important sightseeing of Trondheim is the mighty Nidaros Cathedral. It is the biggest medieval building of northern Europe. The construction began in the year 1075, assumedly at the spot where the mortal remains of the holy Olav were entombed. In the year 1320, the cathedral was finished. But there was not much time to enjoy the glossiness of the cathedral; Numerous fires raged in it and during the reformation, the gorgeous inventory was either destroyed or brought to Denmark; When the reconstruction began in 1869, the church was not much more than a ruin. Not until a couple of years ago, the maintenance works where concluded.
The intellectual life of the city that fell asleep like Sleeping Beauty after the reformation, revided in the middle of the 18th century. The royal Norwegian society of science was established, in the year 1767 onbe of the first newspapers were emited here, and in the year 1803 the city got the first public theatre of Norway.
Trondheim became again a Norwegian cultural centre, and in these times, in the field of science and investigation with the technical university and the technological investigation centre and excelent reputation, also abroad. The university city is today, with its 140.000 inhabitants the third biggest city of the country. Those who want to explore Trondheim on their own, has the opportunity on the 11th day to take part in a city tour.
The destination of the excursion of today, the 3rd day, is the antique mansion Ringve. At 2 km distance from the city centre, Ringve results to be a music historical museum that is a case sui generis and an adventure for eyes and ears. With a specialized guidance, one makes a journey into the music history. Historical instruments are presented to one, maybe also a "Hardingfele" - a four - stringed violin of the 17th century. Some rooms are dedicated to composers like Chopin, Beethoven or the grand Norwegian Edward Grieg. This excursion is offered from May until September.
At 12 o'clock the Hurtigrute to northern direction leaves Trondheim. The ship slowly glides through the lovely landscape of the fjord that is conditioned by the agriculture. With the view to the country, the passenger stands at the railing and latest now it should be there, this feeling to leave the daily life far behind one. One shouold through the mobile phone into the sea in order to enjoy the journey undisturbed. There are coin-box telephones on board for the real important news and each of the ships is reachable any time through an own fax and telephone number. The times when the radio operator had to be activated are over since long time, also in the Hurtigruten.
After the Hurtigrute reached the debouchure of the Trondheim fjord, it continues with northern course passing the blank polished, crooked skerries and islands, as flat as a pancake. Soon, the red lighthouse of Kjeungskjaer is visible and we pass it. The skerry on which the lighthouse stands is so small that it looks as the lighthouse was standing right in the water. In former times, the lighthouse keeper lived in the second floor. Now, the technology replaced him; As numerous other light beacons, this lighthouse is also operated from the country by remote control. Nevertheless, at the Hurtigruten stretch, there are still approximately 20 light houses in which still lighthouse keeper work.
In the afternoon, the steamship wriggles through the tight Stokksund. When King Willhelm travelled for the first time with the Hohenzollern through the Sund, people say he lost control and was close to take the rudder away from the pilot. But the pilot, who was later called the King pilot, said calmly: „Here, it doesn't help to be a King, here, I am the pilot“. If the history realy happened like that is unknown, but what is sure is that after this work, the pilot could show off a golden watch with the signature of the King.
Between Stokksund and the arrival at 09.15 p.m. in Rörvik there is with Folda the third stretch in the open sea. In the Folda, many ships became the prey of the sea. Only the Hurtigruten-vessels were spared for decades. This is why people were stunned in Rörvik on a sunday evening in October 1962 when the MS Sanct Svithun to northern direction was missing. In the next morning, it became certain. For never explained reasons, the ship – unbelievable in times of navigation technique – bore away its course for 12 knots and sank. 41 people died. The tragedy on the Folda was the worst misfortune that ever touched Hurtigruten in times of piece.
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Author: Manfred Hofmann; Copyright: Patrick Wagner, www.tourist-guide.biz